According to the French naval officer Louis de Grandpré, the very first Madras handkerchiefs were born out of European ‘East India’ company rivalry. In his memoir of a voyage he took to India in 1790, Grandpré recounts how the British East India Company commissioned their weavers in Madras to make imitation Pulicat handkerchiefs - an extremely popular style of handkerchief made in the Dutch East India Company-controlled port town of Pulicat.

In Grandpré’s account, the British initially sold their Madras-made imitation Pulicats at a loss, which drove the Dutch out of the Pulicat trade. Then the British hired on all the former Pulicat weavers and raised the price of their ‘Madras handkerchiefs', cornering the South Indian checked cotton handkerchief market.

Related Database Records

Pages from an English translation of A Voyage in the Indian Ocean and to Bengal, Undertaken in the Year 1790 by Louis de Grandpré First published in French in Paris, France, 1801 This edition published Brattleboro, Vermont, 1814  Library of Congress