Known as the 'Gateway to South India', the city of Madras was built on international trade. It was from the Southeast Indian port at Madras that the first ‘Madras handkerchiefs’ were exported in the early 1700s, alongside hundreds of other varieties of South Indian cloth then being traded worldwide. Some of the weavers who made Madras handkerchiefs worked in the city itself, but most worked in clusters, or payakats, of villages outside of town.