Some handkerchief varieties were categorised by their yarn, which could be spun in different thicknesses and dyed in different colours. Others were categorised based on elements of their design, such as the size of their checks or the dominant colour of their pattern. A few varieties were categorised by their texture, which could be modified after weaving to make the fabric supple or crisp. This Ventapolam handkerchief, from Vetapalem, Andhra Pradesh, has been given a glossy sheen by rubbing the yarns flat with a shell.

Caption: Ventapolam (Vetapalem) Handkerchief woven by an unknown Indian weaver in Vetapalem, Andhra Pradesh, c.1855. V&A, 8298(IS)